C-GO3 Broken Gimbal wire repair - pre-emptive modification

Discussion in 'Camera's (C-GO2/C-GO3/C-GO4)' started by Sticks, Feb 10, 2016.

  1. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    OK...I did the ol' "Found a tree, knocked the gimbal off, broke the wires" thing. I was going to perform the repairs and put in a break away connection mid point in the leads from the gimbal mount to the gimbal so no more ripped wires off the circuit board the next time I crash.

    So I finally got a hold of all the crap I needed to perform the repairs, and that one little inlaid wire that came loose from the circuit board, broke off. And everything was going so well too.

    Getting ready to start.

    I purchased a 120 count bag of 2.5mm male and female jumper wires off Amazon (and I only needed 3), each are about 10 inches long.
    Soldering iron with small tip
    Wire cutters
    Wire strippers capable of doing 26ga wire
    For my tired old eyes, a magnifying glass equipped "Helping Hands".


    [​IMG]


    Finished the break away wires for the gimbal mount. I used three distinct colors to aid in making sure I made the right connections once it was all assembled.
    [​IMG]


    The inlaid wire and copper pad that ripped loose of the board. This appears to be a rather common occurance. I have read up on several people that have had this same damage - even on a GoPro mount.

    NOTE - depending on the amount and violence that the inlaid wire gets pulled out of the board, it may damage it beyond this repair (hence doing this preemptively)
    [​IMG]


    Got 2 of the lower wire soldered on, then that one that pulled the pad and wire loose from the board broke, despite my efforts to place it back in it's original location.
    [​IMG]


    SO - The current plan is to solder the PWM wire to the back of the pigtail connection port, but I need to know which lead is what.
    [​IMG]
    Thank you to RodeoGeorge for the tip, I used my DMM to ohm out the pigtail connection pins to the corresponding solder points to figure out which was which. I got lucky that nothing else on the board closed the circuits and gave me false readings.
    Left to right,

    A ~ GND
    B ~ VCC
    C ~ PWM


    So now that I found out which pin on the back of the connector I need to go to, I get my PWM wire soldered on. and route the wires under the board.

    [​IMG]

    Ran the wires under the board and up from behind, then through the cover.

    [​IMG]

    This should give the wires a little more grip when they are being jerked on when the next occurrence of separation occurs distributing the pull along the whole board rather than just the tiny solder joints.
    [​IMG]

    Here is is all assembled and connected. The pins keep a good connection, and should pull free in the event of another gimbal mount separation. No I did not do a inertia test to verify. I will take it on faith that the solder joints and the wires will hold longer than the pins in the sockets.

    Probably going to void the warranty on the other (yes, I bought a another Q5004k set) and do this preemptively, so the board does not get damaged by ripping the solder joints out.

    [​IMG]

    It is a snug fit underneath. I looped the wires and the connections lay off to the side of the cover plate. The gimbal still has vibration dampening, but it is not as "loose" as it was before. It might get better once the wires get used to being in this position.

    I first tried to test in my steady grip, and everything was working but the CGO3 app. I then attached it to my Q and everything works as normal.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2016
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    mikko, Cisco, Headbros and 3 others like this.
  2. Qluber

    Qluber Member

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    And why are we doing this?
     
  3. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    Because people do this
    http://yuneecpilots.com/threads/camera-wires-broke-off-circuit-board.85/

    and this
    http://yuneec-forum.com/threads/crashed.2812/

    and about 30 other threads that I have come across here and elsewhere with the same issue, ripped wires of the gimbal board after crash.

    Yes, we all know that the 4k has a redundancy built in with the pigtail, but to me it's worth the work to do this repair rather than have a crash, loose your pigtail (break it), and your filming flights are done until you get a replacement, or perform the repair to the pigtail if you can.

    Now I can keep flying with the backup in the case.
     
  4. Qluber

    Qluber Member

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    Gotcha
     
  5. mrburns

    mrburns Moderator Staff Member

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    Although there is built in redundancy this is worth making a sticky.
     
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  6. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    This is an;

    "At Your Own Risk, Warranty Voiding, DIY Modification"
    I hope that it salvages some of the others out there if people choose to do this, rather than relying on the pigtail. I'd hate to read someone has another bad crash and breaks the pigtail connection port on the gimbal or the belly of the Q500. Then it's really time for major repairs.
     
    William Ball likes this.
  7. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

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    Pretty smart thinking Sticks. I'll have to do it.
     
  8. Chr

    Chris Moss Member

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    It really bites that they just cant send you another set of boards ... the 2 boards already soldered up just pull out bad board with ripped wires,,, unattach all the cables,, replace boards reattach cables... They want us to send her in with 40 buck minimum plus labor... she still works on the bird no problem... just a power connection for the shoe to connect to the battery source on the hand held. now I know why I see folks just holding the landing gear and walking with it and taping using the power of the bird and getting 25 minutes verses the 15 minutes off of the AA's in the handheld. If anyone has an old cgo3 4k laying around with the good boards in it still and want to part it out,,, for goodness sakes give me a shout... OK I am back to edit,,, I read thru the forums a bit more and WOW,,, I see the handheld has a plug in for the regular chord and you don't need the shoe contact... I also read to just pull the oard and wire and put them away...LOL... this forum rocks.... these techies on their staff are just not with it sometimes... Thanks gang
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
  9. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    Some people just remove the offending part, some do the repair.

    If you just remove the part, then I recommend getting a spare pigtail because those take damage just as bad when there is an involuntary separation of bird and gimbal.
     
  10. Col

    Colibrí New Member

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    Hello LOL, I got my bird last week and I am still anxious to fly. It has been to windy and only take off a few meters but wasn't worth it I guess been my first time. My camera disconnected in a flip just taking off and cable broke. Thanks for your helpful information I just weld it and ready to fly. I am impatient and know if I return may take weeks to get it back and at the end this is a minor repair
     
  11. fir

    fireside New Member

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    Can anyone tell me where to get a replacement gimbal board for the Q500 4K? Mine is trashed from a crash and unrepairable. I was told by several dealers that their techs can't even get them. To me this is unacceptable.
     
  12. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    Sorry to take so long to respond.

    The main board of the Gimbal is matched to the camera - mated pair. You would have to send the whole thing to Yuneec to replace the board and program.
     
  13. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    Great post and great job!
    One thing after looking at all the pictures maybe to those who are going to do the mod/repair if there is room under the cover you could put a small zip tie around the wires on the inside of the cover so if there is a crash and separation the zip tie would keep the wires from pulling on the board at all. Just make sure the zip tie is large enough to not slip through the slots on the cover but small enough to go around the wires and get a good grip on them. I've not worked on that type camera so I don't know if there is room in there to do that or not.
    Another possible suggestion is to zip tie the three wires to the plastic mounting post of the PC board so again they would be secured on the inside of the cover and hopefully the break away connections will separate fully and not pull on the wires at all. Or zip tie the 3 wires to the slot in the cover itself with a very small zip tie. Again, I've not worked on that type camera and don't know how much room you have to work with.
    Excellent job on the write up and all the great pictures!
     
  14. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    Since we are talking camera gimbal assembly here maybe some of the experts know my answer-hopefully!

    One question slightly off topic-
    but since my Q500+ has 4 wires connecting the camera/gimbal to the connector mounted on the body of the Q does anyone know the pinout configuration of the 4 wires?
    Looking straight down at the body of the Q with it's on it's back nose forward left to right which two wires would be the +/- power wires? Or looking at the connector with the snap/latch on top which two would be +/- power?
    I'm trying to use this 1>4 power distribution board to mount extra LED's on board but the board is made for the Q4K that has a different connector than my Q500+ and I wanted to avoid having to take the camera apart just to find out which 2 were power.
    For all you Q4K unit owners you might be interested in this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262309177833?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    And some bright LED's mounted on the bottom: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262208598828?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

    I'm just trying not to have to open up the Q and solder in the wires to the main power bus wiring that powers all the Q electronics. I've recently got a "mechanics special" from Buddy so I may just hard wire everything in when I do the shell/body changeover.

    Thanks in advance for any help or info! I wish Yuneec would have color coded the 4 wires from the camera to Q but I guess they wanted to keep everything looking nice w/all black wires.
     
  15. Jagerbomb52

    Jagerbomb52 Well-Known Member

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    Fireside
    When you say your board is trash can you tell me what has been ripped from it. Many parts of that board can be resoldered if you know where to send it. I had a CGO2+ board trashed and the female connectors were ripped off. I set it out o a place that does micro soldering and it came back a week later all fixed up for just over a hundred bucks. Cheaper than buying a camera.
     
  16. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    There is room, and I pondered it. The break away pulls apart pretty easy - compared to soldered connections, so the way I routed it under the board, it should transfer 80% of the pulling force to the board, in turn the mounting screw points. Stronger than the thin plastic of the cover. Good thought on the mounting pillar though.

    That and I did not have any tiny zip ties at home when I did this.
     
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  17. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    I think you did an excellent job & it should work great. Sometimes I'm just a little OCD on going overboard on stuff.
    Hopefully someone with the GGO2+ can help me with the 4 wires coming out as to which two are power for my LED mod. I've got plenty of time since the parts are coming on slow boat from China eBay.
     
  18. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    ** I forgot**
    Man Sticks, I saw that crazy weather on the news you guy's are having!!
    One day warm and then snow!!! Sounds like south Texas weather only without the snow, one day cool/clear, next day warm humid and rain!

    At least you got it all fixed up so when the weather clears!
    It was a clear sunny down down my way today but a little too windy for my flying comfort level so just took a drive in the car and ate some good seafood near Galveston at a little place on the water...

    If you read/see anything about my Q500+ camera/gimbal wiring let me know please.

    Fly safe!
    :)
     
  19. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    Yeah, I can't help with the wiring. Try the CGO2 forum section.

    Odds are high that you will need to tap into the main BUS for power and ground.

    If you wanted power for LED's w/o the camera on, then just power up the Q500, and use a multimeter to check you power and ground.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2016
  20. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    I might just tap into the main power bus since I don't know if those power wires going to the camera/gimbal might go through some other circuit that might not be able to handle the extra current of the LED's.
    I thought about probing with the multimeter but if there was some type of sensitive semiconductor/IC directly connected to the control/up/down angle and I use a powered multimeter it might do some damage....with my luck.
     
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