Fat Shark Predator V2

Discussion in 'Help' started by raddbus, Mar 24, 2016.

  1. john cappiello

    john cappiello New Member

    Feb 25, 2016
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    Oh, right.
     
  2. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    Hey Raddbus. Here is a link to a video that will give you a good idea how FPV looks in reality. The onboard "gopro" "runcam" "Mobius"cameras do a great job of recording flights but it not the same image you get in the goggles. Have a look. This guys flying leaves a lot to be desired. Very shaky and radical. (he needs to tune his PIDs) I also don't know why his audio picked up static either. But it does give you an idea of the small breakups that you get on 5.8ghz. 5.8 does not like walls or obstacles to penetrate.
     
  3. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    William, which is better, The FATSHARK 600 TVL or the 700 TVL. I'm getting the list together, checking which place, GETFPV or RMRC has the best prices. RMRC doesn't have the 600 TVL separate but does have the 700 TVL, for less than the 600 TVL at GETFPV.
     
  4. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

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    Price list comparison:
    Item GETFPV READYMADERC
    FATShark Attitude SD V2
    $300.00 $280.00
    ImmersionRC Raceband 5.8GHz 600mW A/V Transmitter $70.00 $70.00
    FatShark 600TVL CMOS Cam $ 45.00
    FatShark 700 TVL CMOS CAM $42.00
    FatShark Filtered Balance Lead Power Supply 2s-4s $10.00 $8.00
    TOTAL $425.00 $400.00
     
  5. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    Go with the 700 tvl it is a great camera. Make sure you get the power filter too. I put a link in the one response I left. What you do with the power filter is you use the balance lead of your battery to power the tx and in turn the camera. You'll see the power filter has a input for a 2-4 cell pack. PLEASE follow the instructions for hook up carefully to avoid the magic smoke from happening. I'll photo how I do it and post it here.
     
  6. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    Plz do. I was going to solder leads from the board inside the drone that powers the camera/gimbal. You think that would work?
     
  7. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    #27 William Ball, Mar 29, 2016
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2016
    Here are some pics for you Raddbus. I show my qav 250 with the power filter on top of my flight battery. I simply hook the balance lead of my flight battery to the lead and it powers all fpv bits. It also filters the signal for noise reduction. Also pictured is my DJI flamewheel 450 that uses a separate two cell 800mah pack to connect to the power filter mounted ion the right rear leg. You can also see the 700TVL camera I have on this quad it is really a nice camera, so I speak from experience on the one you are thinking of getting. Keep me posted.

    P.S. Pictures are in my media if you can view them there it might help too.
     
  8. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    here they [​IMG]are[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  9. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    No don't solder any leads on as you need to provide only 5 volts max to the camera or it will puff. I would use the power filter lead as it takes care of everything for you, and you have an alibi if something goes wrong that you didn't use another method to power things. Plus it filters the noise of the ESCs. well worth the 8 bucks it costs. With your yuneec, (like my flamewheel) it is easy to find a spot to mount it and even power it from a separate 2 cell battery.
     
  10. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    Raddbus,

    Do a search under media and type in my name, there you will find those pictures with a description about them.
     
  11. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    I was planning on getting all 4 components u mentioned, I was just thinking that I could power the filter with power supplied at the plug that is used for the Camera/gimbal?
     
  12. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    Still thinking, it will be soon, an other question William, it doesn't look like an antenna is included with the parts you have listed so I was gonna get one of these, but which one? The right polarization or left? This is for the transmitter. I'll post a schematic of my planes ones I get a little time but I think it should work and would love input before I begin this. I want to get it done right the first time. LOL I need to post some pics of the progress. One more thing to add to the list of things to do.
    http://www.readymaderc.com/store/in...duct_info&cPath=11_45_49_414&products_id=4442
     
  13. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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  14. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    Stitched likes this.
  15. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    Yeah, he has sound advise on eliminating the CGOs 5.8 so as to not get inteferrence with your fatshark tx. I would say do it this way if you see that it is a good fit for you. I would still do it with the filter lead as it is the only method I have used. Having said that, this guy looks like he knows a thing or two. I would ask him some questions through youtube and be sure of it. ONE last important thing I have failed to share with you so far. I was thinking of this on my way to work today. DO NOT power on your TX without first attaching the 3 lode antenna to it. You will cook the 600mw tx in a matter of minutes without an antenna connected. The tx must have a load on it at all times. Don't let the tx stay powered on for extended periods with out some air flow over it to cool it. You will really enjoy flying with this method. you really feel connected to it. Like I said ask this guy about his experiences and judge from there. I fully admire the way you are going about this. Taking your time ,and doing your research. Good job!
     
  16. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

    Jan 18, 2016
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    Thank You William, I have a motto at work, I don't LOOK busy cuz I got it done right the first time. That is why I'm taking my time, I want this to go perfect the first time. Measure twice, cut once. With all the info available on the internet, it's a wonder not everyone does this first before investing money. I spent 3 months researching drones b4 I got the Typhoon.
    About the filter you keep mentioning, I am going to get the filter, as you had mentioned in the parts list of things to get, but the power for the filter would come from that Gimbal/Camera board. Wouldn't this be correct?
     
  17. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    The power for the power filter comes off the balance lead of the battery you are using to power the quad. Or a separate battery as is the case with my DJI flamewheel 450, then the filtered lead has an output that is delivered to the tx to power the tx. next to that input on the tx is the camera lead that goes to the 700 TV line (tvl) camera, and delivers the 5 volts needed for the camera. I guess you could connect to the balance input leads with a harness from the gimbal camera slot on the Q. I would just be careful to have the polarity correct. Like I mentioned earlier. go with the system this gentleman has used to do his hook up. It must work OK for him.

    Put a meter on the outputs form the Qs camera gimbal slot and see which pins are + and - and signal, also get a reading of the output voltage. This will give you a clear picture of the harness you would need to make. After you know the voltage you can discern what pins to connect to on you filtered lead if you decide to use it. You want to mount the tx on the outside of the craft to get a proper amount of cooling to it.

    Get the balance filtered power lead and have it in your box of parts just in case you find it to be of help. You will probably end up buying a 250 size race quad to build from the ground up someday, and you'll have this part already.
     
  18. ylarik

    ylarik New Member

    Feb 10, 2016
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    Do you guys know if there is any way to send the CGO3 picture to FatShark goggles?
    I know that CGO3 transmit wifi singal and FatShark uses analog signal and thats why they do not hook up out of the box. But is there a way to convert one to anothere?
    I think it would be absolutely awsome to see the same picture via goggles as my CGO3 sees when taking pictures and video. I mean all the mechanics like gimbal, turning nose up and down, transmitter etc is alrady there...
     
  19. William Ball

    William Ball Active Member

    Jan 30, 2016
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    Just put a 250mw fatshark tx on your Q500 and add a fatshark camera, and you got it. Record the beautiful flight with the cgo3. Careful though as I've heard of interference with the two units side by side. Another way is to take advantage of the video in on the fatshark goggles. There is a port on the side of the goggle that alows you to hook up to dvr, a seperate monitor, and so on. If the ST10+ had a port out for video you could do this. I believe the controller for the typhoon H has such a connection, not 100% sure on that.
     
  20. ylarik

    ylarik New Member

    Feb 10, 2016
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    Fatshark tx you say - this is exactly where my thoughts were heading. I could attach the tx and additional antenna under the belly of my Q500. This way my ST10+ gets the signal from CGO3 and FS goggles will get the feed from FS tx. The ??? is that I have to get the video feed out from CGO3. Might this be a problem? Otherwise wireing two cords up from CGO3 wouldn't be a problem I guess. Also the power for the tx - you have already covered this topic in this thread.
    Would the same ImmersionRC Raceband 5.8GHz 600mW A/V Transmitter work you are refering to in one of your previous posts?
    Interference of course is something I have to test out - I guess no quarantees here.
    The option B you are describing is a bit too much I am afraid. This all thing has to be still porable for me. Just to take it out from the case and off I go.
     
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