Rnlcomp's build

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Rnlcomp, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    The frame kit I ordered came in http://carolinadronz.com/products/yuneec-q500-q500-q500-4k-typhoon-g-mod-kit I'll be sharing info and pics on the whole process. 1st lets see the box as it arrived :eek:
    Samsonite gorilla's work at the post office apparently.

    Thank goodness nothing was bent or broken!!! I am going to send in a formal complaint with pics to let them know someone needs retraining or removal! Insured or not, there is NO excuse for the condition the box was in.

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    Out of the box...

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    The instructions that came with the kit are fairly easy, all pictures and text description to use Loctite on the screws, removing (de-soldering) the motors from the esc's as well as where to cut the esc wiring for removal from the Yuneec plastic frame, what parts are oem and not included as you will already have them as well as a description of all hardware.

    Weight of the kit. Subtract 0.3 oz for the ziplock bag it came in.

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    More to follow later....
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    Last edited: Apr 23, 2016
  2. Fra

    Frank@carolinadronz New Member

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    Thank you for the images and sorry for the mis-handling of the USPS. If you see any damage just let me know and I will ship you the parts ASAP. Post pics of your build.

    Also, the Canopy will be available next week in RED, BLACK and White.
     
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  3. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    Thanks Frank, All parts accounted for and nothing bent or broken :). 8.5 hrs later she's done and so am I.

    Finished bird.
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    Will update build with more pics later.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2016
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  4. Davidnclearlaketx

    Davidnclearlaketx Active Member

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    Excellent job!!
    One bad ass bird!
    Looking forward to seeing her in the air! + the new retractable landing gear mod you are working on!

    Seems like all shippers just don't give a rats ass on how they get our products to us now days.
    Some great, some poor. I've had varied levels of service from everything from DHL coming from China, UPS, USPS, FedEx (and the "smart post" FedEx where the tracking #'s come and go as it gets handed off from FedEx to USPS) It's a crap shoot or a spin of the reels at Golden Nugget....

    Glad you got all the parts OK and it looks great! You know if anything was broken Frank will take care of you ASAP! If more businesses ran their operations like Frank does Carolina Dronz we'd "make America great again"
    "when you tell UPS to leave your delivery under the door mat" My UPS driver friend loves when I post this up on his Facebook page... he's one of the good guys though so I can't give him to much sh*t.
    :)
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    Thanks, and LMAO at the door mat hiding spot. :D
     
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  6. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    1st thing I did was get a box top and some dividers for all the screws, labeled each corner corresponding to the bird, it's easy to get mixed up working upside down.
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    Remove the tape holding the antenna to the leg and let it flop over for now, 1 screw per leg and lift straight up.
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    Remove the 4 screws per light pod then unplug the board from the wire, you may or may not wish to remove the board from the globe for easier access to plug it back in.

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    Under the led pod is the ESC, it will pry up easily just be careful to pry a little on each corner, it won't come out far enough to de-solder it yet, that comes a little later.
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    Following the instructions for the frame kit you will cut the red and black wires leading to the power distribution board, now you can lift the ESC up and turn it over, there is one small 2 wire connector, it will unplug easily, now you can de-solder the 3 motor wires from the ESC and set aside. If you don't know how to solder best let someone else do it.
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    Those who do know how to solder get a solder sucker, it will keep molten solder from leaking over any circuits on the ESC board when de-soldering, you can also use solder wick if that's your favor.
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    Assuming you already have all the body screws out you can now separate the upper and lower body halves, slowly separate the shells and you will find the GPS wires that plug into the main board, disconnect it and lay the top half aside.
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    Lets remove the copper cover, peel it off carefully so you don't lose a lot of the sticky tape holding it on and unscrew the GPS module from the top half and set aside, keep the copper cover, it will go on the new frame.
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    Now remove the battery tray, very straight forward, just a few screws and expose the main board, the wires going to each ESC are shown.
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    Now unscrew the main board, compass module, receiver board, main system led, power switch slide button, all 4 motors, 4 screws per motor and remove the plastic body completely, that's the last you do with the old frame, the sum of all parts and central nervous system below.

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    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016
  7. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    Continued...

    Now the instructions for the new frame come in and tell you to re-solder the ECS's to the motors, knowing which ESC goes with which motor is not critical but why take a chance, I already have each corner labeled in the box for that reason. A set of helping hands from Radio Shack is worth it's weight in gold for this step.
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    With the new frame parts bag handy we can begin construction, you will notice 4 plastic pegs in the motor frame work with screws, go ahead and put the ESC on that part, you will have to press them on, it's kind of tight but leave the screws in for now. Once you mount the motor on the one half of the mount and ESC on the other half remove those screws for the ESC's, you will use those screws to hold the light domes on after you begin running the wires on the new frame.

    The new frame comes partially assembled so you have to take it apart to reinstall the electronics, I understand now why they do that as it does aid greatly in knowing what goes where.

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    Now we build the landing gear and battery box, the instructions don't say anything about how to center the gear skids so a good ole fashioned tape measure does the job, I found exactly 3" from end cap to leg post to be dead center.
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    Take pics of each step as I did just for memories sake, it'll help guide you with what went where.

    The kit mentions to use thread lock on the screws and it's a good idea, there are several different types and I will cover a few, they are color coded.

    RED = Never coming off EVER! AVOID at all cost, this is not a bull dozer you're building.
    BLUE = Good for basic automotive/machine applications but not so much for these tiny screws.
    GREEN = Just right for light duty applications, it will keep the screws from backing out with vibration but allow you to break them loose if required.

    Nothing more to add at this point, the included instructions and your memory of how the wires run will take you to completion. Don't be intimidated by this, it's easier than it looks. If anyone has any questions I haven't covered by all means ask away and I'll do my best to help.
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    Last edited: Apr 25, 2016
  8. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    OH, magnetic tip drivers really help especially with removing the screws holding the 2 halves of the oem Q body together.
     
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  9. raddbus

    raddbus Active Member

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    WOW, Looks great. I read Franks post that they coming in RED, BLACK & WHITE. Way cool
     
  10. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    The canopy covers they have come in those colors, the frame kits can be had in Red, Gold, or Silver.
     
  11. whe

    wherry Active Member

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    Excellent! Thanks for going to the trouble for us.
     
  12. Q-Vision

    Q-Vision New Member

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    Nice Work! What's the weight difference between the original shell and the new frame? Any weight savings?

    I guess the advantage of the reframe is that you can pretty much use any battery you want.
     
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  13. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    The new frame is 56g lighter and I never even gave a thought to the battery, your right, I can get away from those $100 proprietary batteries. :)
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2016
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  14. Q-Vision

    Q-Vision New Member

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    Bonus Benefits! :D
    You can likely buy 2 or 3 and even higher capacity for the price of one Yuneec battery. Since you're saving on weight, a heavier battery shouldn't matter too much.
    Hmmm, now you've got me thinking about doing a swap - and mine's not even broken! A set of retracts on that frame would be cool! Folding Arms for portability? Better stop before I talk myself into it!:eek:
     
  15. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    I'm working on adding a set of retract LG. Found a perfect set made for a DJI Flamewheel, just have to program an Arduino and wire in a sonar sensor I have, that way they work fully automatically. Here's a link showing how the sensor/Ard might be mounted.
    http://yuneec-forum.com/threads/retractable-gear-for-q500.4077/page-2#post-33421

    Also found a higher capacity battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...000mah_3S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html that is a little bit smaller on all dimensions and weighs 20g less for half the cost of one Yuneec battery. Party bonus!! :D similar performance half the cost and even more weight savings which will balance out the added weight of the retracts and electronics to control them as well as the FPV tx and camera that I'm adding.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2016
  16. Q-Vision

    Q-Vision New Member

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    Definitely a win with the batteries. Look forward to the retract setup!
     
  17. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    The CF frame is lighter? Wow, thought for sure it would be heavier.

    Multiple batteries now that you have room. Awesome work. Might be worth trying to go with a new RX board to get away from the Yuneec speed limits. A 55mph 450mm drone with GPS. That would be fun.

    Rnlcomp - now that it is assembled. have you placed it on a beam (landing gear) to find the balance point?

    How does she fly?

    Thoughts on different antenna for the 2.4RX?
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2016
  18. Rnlcomp

    Rnlcomp Active Member

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    CF is strong as steel and lighter than aluminum. Not modifying the electronics as it flies very stable but I am going to add different antenna's for both the 5.8 and 2.4, just waiting on the other parts to arrive. Haven't thought much to COG but it seems to be dead center, I can pick it up with 2 fingers in the center and it don't lean fore or aft. As far as speed goes, it's not really designed for hi speed although it is very capable of 50+ mph runs with gps off. I have another Q500 that I'm going to use as a speed demon, going to take the landing gear off and add some shorter ones and both birds are getting 600mw video/audio tx with FPV camera's.

    I already have a pro 250mm racer, that little sucker hauls azz. So I'm not really looking to make the big bird a racer, I love the civility of the way she handles as is.

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    The stock Q is actually 508mm and the new frame stretches it out to 511mm if memory serves me. I haven't had a chance to put the new frame in the air, ran into a snag building it and fried the main flight board, stupid mistake but it happens, it's in the process of being repaired and should be in the air next week.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2016
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  19. ^pomen_GTR^

    ^pomen_GTR^ Active Member

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  20. Sticks

    Sticks Active Member

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    Ouch

    All that work just to let the smoke genie out and ground you.

    Looking forward to updates.
     
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